W hen he was studying at Central Saint Martins, London, in the late 00s, Craig Green wrote his dissertation on the adoption of gay style subcultures by straight men. In the preceding decades, perfumed dandies, dilly boys, mods, skins, clones , new romantics, scallies , fierce vogueing divas and muscle Marys had all been sieved out of their natural habitat on to the high street for brief moments of mass consumption. But by the time Green — currently reigning menswear designer of the year at the British fashion awards — was weighing up his thesis, things had changed. A reciprocal shared wardrobe, common across menswear emerged. Most of the men who dressed like that were straight. Gay men all seemed to be growing beards, too.
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In male gay culture , a bear is often a larger or obese hairier man who projects an image of rugged masculinity. Bears are one of many LGBT communities with events, codes, and a culture-specific identity. However, in San Francisco in the s any hairy man of whatever shape was referred to as a 'bear' until the term was appropriated by larger men and other words had to be used to describe hairy other-shaped men such as otter slim , cub young bear on the way , or wolf hairy, medium build. The term bear was popularized by Richard Bulger, who, along with his then partner Chris Nelson — founded Bear Magazine in There is some contention surrounding whether Bulger originated the term and the subculture's conventions.
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